You can grab the STL and print/modify it yourself off my website here: Ģ) pull your stock trumpets out of an airbox - I bought a spare online for $40. There is a flat part of the clamp in the middle, that side you'll want to print facing down towards the build plate. You'll want to print it in ABS or PETG as it has better heat resistance, I used PETG. My clamp uses the pre 10/2004 style throttle body boots BMW part number 11612466477. Basically, unscrew the endcap off the trumpets and either cut or push them out. This is really the same as the PSDesign kit - they use factory ITBs too although they say otherwise.ġ) You can use my trumpet clamp design if you'd like, it's made for pre 10/2004 style trumpets. If anybody else wants to try, the shopping list is pretty simple. Windows up, my daughter filming - it's a bit definitely louder in real life, especially with the windows down. I have a stock exhaust so the car is basically stock quiet until over 3000rpms and than you Any sound clip / video would be awesome as well □Sure, I'll keep you posted. I really wonder how it'll do in the longer term - please continue to post as time goes on to show the progress? Perhaps this could be a beta for a kit that you could potentially provide for the community if enough people have interest. Probably my best option is to use a CSL style airbox.so that's why BMW made that eh. I've thought about running hose into the exhaust using a venturi valve, or perhaps routing it through an oil separator/oil catch can and then into the IACV.but I'm not sure I want to route it directly into the IAVC - sounds like a great way to gump up the IACV. The stock system dumps back into the airbox so you don't smell anything, but running open velocity stacks there really isn't a good place pipe that back into the intake. I've designed a plate to go under them to help direct airflow into the trumpets, but I haven't put it on since I'm not sure if I want to keep this setup or not.īut it's the PCV system, running an open PCV sucks - just sticks. The PCV can was my first beta print, I was going to reprint one in black or paint it black - I just had a bunch of white filament.įor tuning, I'm running MSS54HP non-h-bridge DME using a stock CSL tune with a CSL MAP & IAT sensors. Literally, the only thing that cost any money was the ITG filters ($22/each) Stock thumpets out of the stock airbox - same as the CSL turmpets.Īlso designed a PCV catch can to route brake booster and valve cover vent, it connects on the bottom to the stock oil return I designed a clamp in Fusion360 that holds two trumpets together (so you need three total) so all the factory trumpets can use all the stock mounting hardware. While slight gains can be seen by pointing the velocity stack into oncoming air without the filter, this puts the engine at risk as unfiltered air can cause unwanted debris to enter your engine.While I've been designing a CSL style airbox in my spare time I designed I'd try the Velocity stack / open ITB setup. NOTICE: Hybrid Racing recommends always running the filter on the cold air intake. Fully assembled, the filter and velocity stack has a 6.25" overall height and 7.5" diameter. The velocity stack has a 2.25" overall height. All you need to connect it to your 3.5" cold air intake is a 3.5" silicone coupler and (2) hose clamps. The velocity stack has a 6" inlet and a 3" outlet. Included in each kit is a velocity stack, filter, and a hose clamp to connect the two together. That said, the same sort of benefits can be seen by adding a similar bellmouth (in this case a velocity stack) to the end of your cold air intake. This bellmouth is added because it increases the efficiency of air moving through the pipe by as much as 70% in the right situations. If you've ever looked inside an intake manifold, you've noticed a curved "bellmouth" profile at the inlet of each intake runner. A well-designed cold air intake and high-flow cone filter are great ways to let your engine breath better, but a filter on the end of a pipe has its limitations. Paying close attention to how air flows into and out of your engine is an obvious place to start making modifications for optimal performance. ![]() When it comes to getting the most power out of your engine, the devil is in the details.
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